On top of the moor and proud of it

With its scattering of independent businesses, cafes and pubs, the village of Princetown has a timeless charm – and the community spirit here is warming, writes Katie Oborn.

On a hot August day, (there’s been so many this summer), I decided to escape the city (I live in Plymouth) and make my way to the village.

From Yelverton Roundabout, I got the number 98 bus to Princetown. The views of Dartmoor are always breathtaking – and after weeks of relentless sunshine the moorland’s unique climate presented some typical drizzle and fog.

However, Princetown has experienced soaring high temperatures like the rest of the UK during this summer’s heatwaves – and villagers told me that the area was on “high alert” for wildfires.

The postmaster in Princetown, Mark Renders, who also sits on various committees such as the National Park Authority, told he “loves the remoteness” of Princetown, but added “it’s like marmite”.

He said: “I don’t think everyone, especially visitors, realise how remote it is along with the weather extremes we get here. Currently, in the middle of a run of heatwaves and being in the middle of Dartmoor National Park, we’re on red alert for wildfires – and there’s a ban on using barbecues.”

I asked Mark about the controversial scheme for nine affordable homes at Princetown, which has been approved by Dartmoor National Park Authority despite strong local objection. He told me they are “needed”, will “all be for rent” and are classified as “affordable”.

“The age demographic has been going up in Princetown”, Mark said, “and that’s been forcing youngsters out as living here becomes unaffordable”.

Homes for sale in Princetown vary greatly in price – I had a look online and a huge detached house is on the market for (offers over) £850,000. However, at the other end of the scale, a two-bedroom flat has an guide price of £91,000 at auction.

Resident Sarah Rendle told me: “My biggest fear is they will try to expand the village and like so many, lose what’s so special. If they would only focus on the existing buildings and get them habitable there would be many more homes without spoiling everything. I moved to Princetown two years ago, I absolutely love it – and wished we’d moved here decades ago.”

Another local, Lesley Moor said: “Princetown is a village with a village vibe. An eclectic group of villagers doing their best to support everyone.”

Princetown has a strong sense of community, which really shone through when I visited. The newsletter ‘In the Clouds’ details walks, craft activities, darts and skittles along with historical talks. The village has a youth club, a library, a parent and toddler club, as well as several pubs, a food hub and independent shops.

Heather Newland has a “real connection” to the village as several of her relatives lived there over the generations.

She told me: “I lived in Princetown in the 1970s, my parents were from Princetown, my relatives lived in Princetown. My uncle, dad's brother was the village coalman. His name was Hector but they called him ‘Twin’, as he was (one of) a twin.”

Heather volunteers at the village library, but doesn’t live in Princetown. However, she said that volunteering at the library there is “like coming home again”.

She added: “I'm extremely proud of my roots, I tell anyone that comes in the library, that I used to live in Princetown – and I've reconnected with some people that I know.”

This year, as part of the Dartmoor Outdoor Festival, a Princetown Festival Hub will take place in the village from August 28–30. There will be music, workshops and activities for both locals and visitors to enjoy.

Princetown is popular with tourists and has lodgings for people passing through, I met a group of cyclists on an “enjoyable jaunt” across Devon – and they’d stopped off for a break in the village.

Colin Mantripp and Tim Hudson along with some other cyclists, were staying in The Railway Ramblers Rest. Tim said “the countryside surrounding Princetown is stunning” and the group had enjoyed a meal in the Prince of Wales pub the night before.

Tim told me it was the first time he’d visited the village – and he commented on the history and folklore surrounding Princetown as being a big draw to visitors, “it needs its own folk festival”, he added.

Locals told me they are happily anticipating the new Duchy of Cornwall community and visitor hub that’s set to open soon at the site of the former Dartmoor National Park visitor centre. The building has been getting some renovation and paintwork and was being worked on when I visited. It is now opening as Gather & Moor.

While I was in Princetown, I left the village for a walk via the path to the moor beside the Plume of Feathers. I only had to walk for about ten minutes, past some foxgloves and swooping swallows, before sitting peacefully on a bench for a while, surrounded by the beautiful moor and looking back at Princetown.

Then, before heading back to Plymouth on the bus, I popped into Happy Belly Bakery to pick up some delicious sourdough bread, that I’d tried last time I was in the village.

Owner, Zelah Stott runs the bakery along with her husband, Michael – and she said they have huge support from the community as well as a lot of tourists passing through.

The Happy Belly Bakery sources several ingredients from Tavistock suppliers and the husband-and-wife team like to keep things as local as possible.

Just before I headed back to the city, another local told me how much she “loves the peace and quiet of Princetown” as well as the “friendliness of the place”.

She added: “People think that not a lot goes on here, but there is just so much for the community in Princetown.”